Our jeep bounced up the white track, wheels spinning on loose pebbles. Below, the Montalcino-Buonconvento road disappeared in the morning mist. ‘Can this be the right place? Where's the music?' wondered my partner, David. Then, up ahead, we caught a glimpse of Carlo Cignozzi, the wine producer we had come to interview. He was leading a group of tourists into a vineyard perched on the hillside. From his animated gestures and the attentive circle gathered around him, it was clear that he already had his audience entranced. I rolled down the car window and the notes of Mozart's 23rd piano concerto drifted into our ears.