When you dine out in trattorias there are always a few desserts on the menu for special occasions: zuccotto, zuppa inglese and millefoglie. The oldest of these is zuccotto, which has many connections to the Renaissance. This liqueur-soaked dessert is made of sponge cake and, in its classic semifreddo version, sheep’s milk ricotta and Italian whipped meringue with chocolate chips and candied fruit. As with most recipes, there are as many versions of zuccotto as there are cooks. There are versions made in gelato shops and a different version in pastry shops, and a simple home version, the recipe for which I share here.