A ghost road at first glance, viale Ludovico Ariosto is a thriving hub of life on the edge. (Of the historic center, that is). More like a long parking lot than a bona-fide boulevard—witness the tiny smattering of trees that apparently accounts for the viale designation—it’s a quiet borderland at the base of Porta San Frediano, giving way to the city’s more residential climes. The spare storefronts and idle vehicles are the first signs you’ve exited Florence™ and entered something more unaffected. It’s poetic, really…much like its namesake.