Fashion aside, Florence is the real star of this June’s Pitti Immagine Uomo as LuisaViaRoma and Salvatore Ferragamo reveal their runways in two of the city’s showstopping squares: piazzale Michelangelo and piazza della Signoria.
Proud of its hometown, Salvatore Ferragamo has chosen Florence as the world stage to debut its new spring-summer 2020 menswear collection. The fashion house will present a special show on June 11 in piazza della Signoria, whose 16th-century Neptune Fountain by Bartolomeo Ammannati has been restored recently after a careful two-year project funded by Ferragamo.
The restoration of the Neptune Fountain by Bartolomeo Ammannati was financed by the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion house.
Under the creative direction of English fashion designer Paul Andrew, the runway will focus on the evolution of Ferragamo menswear with innovative content and well-defined style, characterized by a fresh luxury identity.
“Florence is our heart, a part of our history, and we are enthusiastic to be back here as ‘Florence Calling’ at Pitti Uomo,” Ferruccio Ferragamo, president of Salvatore Ferragamo, commented in a press release. “At a moment of great consolidation for our brand’s style and identity, we believe that Pitti is the ideal setting for highlighting the direction taken as we move forward, showcasing a strong menswear collection outside the co-ed environment.”
Paul Andrew explains the city’s importance for the creativity of Ferragamo. “Florence has always been a creative and inspirational platform for Salvatore Ferragamo and for our founder. Pitti Uomo is therefore the natural location for expressing the contemporary vision that represents us today: strong cultural continuity between different generations, with a constant eye to the future. It is an opportunity for emphasising our DNA, that added value that makes us distinctly unique. This collection, on which I am working with our head of menswear, Guillaume Meilland, will embrace the creative essence of Ferragamo’s male universe.”
A recent LuisaViaRoma fashion shoot in Florence
In other runway news, the city’s luxury fashion giant LuisaViaRoma has joined forces with former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris Carine Roitfeld for the launch of her latest concept CR Runway, a much-awaited fashion show in piazzale Michelangelo on June 13.
Commencing as the sun sets, CR Runway and LuisaViaRoma are inviting 5,000 members of the public to line the streets as fashion visionary Carine Roitfeld, together with LuisaViaRoma CEO Andrea Panconesi showcase their favorite pieces from the fall-winter 2019 women’s and men’s collections. Tribute will be paid to the 1990s through featuring 90 of Roitfeld’s personally curated looks, which are expected to blend established houses and niche labels, such as Givenchy, Richard Quinn, Prada, Burberry, Off-White and Simone Rocha. Most of the outfits, some of which are being designed specifically for the event, will subsequently go on sale on LuisaViaRoma.com via a series of spot launches throughout the year.
“The styling of these 90 show looks will draw inspiration from the 1990s, one of the most compelling decades for art and fashion. Our superstar casting will feature the top models from the era recreating iconic runway moments from the past, while a surprise musical performance will bring this nostalgia to life,” Roitfeld explains in an article on CRFashionBook.com.
At a recent press conference in Paris, Andrea Panconesi, CEO of LuisaViaRoma, commented, “The runway will begin as the sun sets over the Arno, when the river becomes blood red. … It will be like a spectacle, like going to the theatre. It’s a tribute to Florence, the capital of the Renaissance, where the first prêt-à-porter runways were held in the Fifties.”
Honoring the decade defined by effortless glamour and versatile sexiness, the show will be cast by acclaimed casting director Piergiorgio Del Moro, uniting iconic models from the turn of the century to recreate some of fashion’s most historical runway looks reinterpreted through today’s latest collections. The soundtrack will be curated by industry-leading sound director Michel Gaubert, with a closing performance by Lenny Kravitz and additional surprise music performances that have yet to be announced. Produced by Andy Boose and Stefan Santoni of ISG, this one-of-a-kind event, which will be attended by international guests within the entertainment, art and fashion industries, will include a VIP cocktail hour and a private dinner. Despite the private dimensions, the event will be broadcast on big screens mounted throughout the city.
On June 10 at 9pm, via Maggio and via de' Tornabuoni will be adorned in flags, banners and bunting. Starting at the column of San Felice, skirting piazza Santa Trinita and continuing as far as piazzetta Antinori, the hangings will link the coats-of-arms of crafts and guilds with the reproduction of Renaissance fabrics selected in collaboration with Prato’s Museo del Tessuto. Expect green-hued bunting characterized with gilded pinecones, apples and lemons at a height of 6 meters. Starting at 5 pm, two processions of flag bearers will walk along the streets of the historic city center to the Ponte Vecchio, which will be covered in a gold carpet, on which the spectacular Huma Show will take place. Dancing fountains and fireworks will bring the event to a climax along the river between Ponte Santa Trinita and Ponte alla Carraia at 10:30 pm.
Running from June 11 to September 29, this innovative exhibition conceived and curated by
Olivier Saillard at Palazzo Pitti will display clothing by the designers who breathed life into special events at Pitti Uomo between 1989 and 2019—where possible, with a look taken from the collections presented in Florence—along with a selection of garments coming from companies. The show will lead to the creation of a permanent menswear collection: the Men’s Fashion Collection of the Fondazione Discovery, which will be donated to the Museo della Moda e del Costume of Palazzo Pitti.
Join this night walk through Manifattura Tabacchi curated by Linda Loppa, Polimoda’s advisor of strategy and vision. Seven designers/artists—Bart Hess, Lara Torres, Armando Chant, Moses Hamborg, Bernhard Willhelm, Clemens Thornquist and Senjan Jansen—share their vision of fashion by strolling through the uncontaminated areas of the city’s former tobacco factory turned events space. Open to the public from June 11 to 14 from 9.30pm to midnight.
Concept store Société Anonyme has hooked up with Closed, a contemporary German design brand, to create a streetwear-inspired denim collection. The collaboration will be presented and celebrated at a launch party at the Société Anonyme store in via Niccolini on June 11.
The Istituto Europeo di Design (IED), together with Detox - CID and Greenpeace Italia, will present five eco-friendly collections on June 11 (7-9pm) in the courtyard of the Palazzina Reale. The work has been selected from among third-year IED students of fashion design and stylist courses in Milan, Rome, Florence, Turin and Como.
The Manifattura Tabacchi also hosts the final event on the Dr. Martens Rebellious Summer Tour. On June 11, at 11pm, new Dr. Martens sandals will be celebrated with an electronic party featuring top European DJs organized by Lattexplus in the new piazza della Ciminiera. Free entrance but sign up on Lattexplus.com; entry from via delle Cascine 33, Florence.
On June 10 at 6pm, via Tornabuoni will become a runway as Istituto Marangoni Firenze presents the first fashion show of its three-year fashion design course.