Maremma is what you make it. It’s not an area with a ton of must-sees, which may be why this busy art lover finds it so appealing. On crossing the invisible border past Siena, moving towards Grosseto, during my almost weekly drives from Florence to Maremma, I instantly feel happy and relaxed.
Maremma has a fascinating history: the numerous Etruscan, and later Roman, settlements were abandoned in the Middle Ages, and the swampy land became malaria-ridden and impossible to cultivate. The bonifica, or draining, began in the 18th century under Hapsburg-Lorraine rule, but was only completed after World War II. This makes for an area that is still rather wild and undiscovered; the landscape is primarily agricultural and the only large city for miles around is Grosseto. Summer visitors clog the coast, enjoying the clean water when it’s too hot to think about doing anything else but going to the beach. But I’m not one for lying still, and so have made a habit out of finding other things to do in Maremma Tuscany. This is my very personal list.