As you wander through Florence and visit the museums, churches and historical sites, take time to enjoy the city’s special eating-places. Following are a couple of my favorites in and nearby the San Lorenzo Market. Remember, the market hours are from 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday, so all of the restaurants within the market are open for lunch only.
Da Nerbone
Inside the Mercato di San Lorenzo
Tel: 055-219-949
Open for lunch only
Opened in 1865 within the new Mercato Centrale, Nerbone is still going strong. Any time of day, you’ll be rubbing elbows with truck drivers, bankers, shopkeepers, and students. There are only five tables! However, that doesn’t stop anyone from eating. Just grab your glass of wine and belly up to the bar. This is a great place for trying a single dish, especially home-style pastas, soups, and stews. Nerbone is owned by the owners of the famous Vecchia Bettola. They recently opened a second Nerbone in the main square in Greve in Chianti.
Fiaschetteria-Trattoria Mario
Via Rosina, 2R
Behind Mercato di San Lorenzo in the Piazza Mercato Centrale
Tel: 055-218-550
Open for lunch only
One of my favorites! A must for anyone visiting Florence! Mario is only open for lunch, Monday through Saturday. There is always a line! To avoid the line, come before noon before the locals arrive. Try the Zuppa di Verdura, vegetable soup served with a slice of toasted bread on the bottom. This is the place to try the famous Florentine steak. It’s a two-pound t-bone cooked rare. It will melt in your mouth! And don’t forget the french fries; they’re not frozen. Try the daily specials. I love the Braciole in Salsa offered up on Wednesdays and the fish dishes on Fridays. The food is a great bargain, so splurge on a bottle of great wine, such as Castello di Ama or Brolio.
Pork’s
Inside the Mercato di San Lorenzo
Open for lunch only
This is a must on my walking tour. Let Mamma Benita and her sons Luigi and Filippo take care of you with wonderful Sicilian home cooking. Opened in 1989, and in a newly restored space, they serve hot pasta alongside marinated and grilled vegetables, special sandwiches, and roast pork sandwiches. My favorite dish is a savory Sicilian “french toast” made with crumbled bread soaked in milk and seasoned with Pecorino Romano cheese and wild herbs, fried, and served warm. They’re open for breakfast, lunch, and snacks until 2 p.m. when the market closes. Friday is fish day. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturday, try the lasagne made with Benita’s hand-rolled pasta. Enjoy wine by the glass! My favorite is the prosecco, a sparkling white wine, on tap next to the Coca-Cola!
Pepó
Via Rosina, 4-6R
Behind Mercato di San Lorenzo in the Piazza Mercato Centrale
Tel: 055-283-259
Closed Sunday
Next door to Mario is a hidden surprise. Chef Roberto Ceccherini left Cibrèo after 4 years in the kitchen and stints in some great hotels, to open Pepó, a lovely small trattoria. The new decor is warm and inviting. The staff is lovely, the food great, they offer a nice house wine by Zanobini, and a € 9 lunch special! It has become my new local dinner spot! I usually start with the coccoli, a Florentine specialty of fried bread with a creamy cheese and prosciutto. Everything here is great!
For more recommendations in the area of the San Lorenzo Market see Divina Cucina’s dining guide online at www.divinacucina.com
