Matteo Lorenzini: stellar cuisine at Sesto sull’Arno

International, intense and unforgettable cuisine at The Westin Excelsior

Helen Farrell
November 16, 2015 - 13:35

The glass-plated sixth-floor restaurant of the Westin Excelsior affords breath-taking views of Florence as far as the horizon. Now it boasts a chef as far-sighted and compelling as the vistas.

 

Cuisine at SESTO

 

Matteo Lorenzini is a known entity: he was one of the three under 30-year-old chefs who rocked the Tuscan restaurant scene by winning a Michelin star for Le Tre Lune at Calenzano in 2014. The restaurant quickly closed down for reasons that have never become fully clear. Sadly, I never made it out to Calenzano, so when the invitation arrived in my inbox I felt “culinarily” obliged to leave The Florentine editor-less for a few hours.

 

Matteo Lorenzini

 

His signature dish? A black-as-night squid ink risotto with the lightest white squid film in monochrome contrast on one side, which pleases the eye before it tantalizes the taste buds. Complex, grain-perfect and high on dairy (lard and sour cream) cut through with just the right edge of lemon and lime acidity, it’s a rice dish that will have milanesi taking the Frecciarossa down from the fashion capital for dinner in Florence.

 

Night-time vistas on the roof of The Westin Excelsior Florence

 

Lorenzini describes his cuisine as "Francophile", a nod to his six-year training with the great Alain Ducasse perhaps, because what the Siena-born chef is actually creating are dishes that embody the Italy of today: international, immediate and intriguing on every level.

 

P.S. A sweet afterthought: Lorenzini’s Like a Mont Blanc is a dessert destined to move mountains. A redesign of a France-meets-Italy classic, the play on textures (soft and crispy), flavours (sweet and nutty) and shapes (all sorts) will remain imprinted on your memory as long as the views out of Sesto on Arno’s unparalleled windows.  And that’s a very long time.

 

SE·STO on Arno at the Westin Excelsior

Piazza Ognissanti 3, Florence

www.sestoonarno.com

055/27152783

€€€

Support The Florentine

It’s time to support The Florentine. It was April 2005 when the first issue of The Florentine hit the presses. Little did the founders know what would lie ahead: 15+ years of a magazine that is loved and respected by readers all around the world. Distributed for free around Florence and to subscribers as far away as New York and Melbourne.
The Florentine always changes with the times—that’s our promise to you.

In recent years, we have improved the monthly print magazine, polished our newsletter, fed our hyperactive social media channels and explored innovative interactive platforms to be closer to you. Every day we receive emails from Florence lovers, expressing gratitude for the work we do. Which is why we have introduced a support page, so that you can pledge directly as a gesture of goodwill for our independent journalism.

Please consider making a donation to help us continue our coverage from this city we all love.


Donation Total: €20,00

more articles

Comments