They emerge mostly at sundown: adventurous guitar players, talented improvisers, brave rockers armed with kitchen supplies, people who bring their music out into the streets and pass around the symbolic hat that goes back to the olden days when you had to sing for your supper.
Over the past few years, there has been a silent revolution amidst Florence’s street artists, a battle against the bureaucracy regarding permission to occupy public land. In 2014, the City of Florence released a rejigged public tender to assign the 29 posts for street artists, 12 of which are in the center. Thanks to this change in law, the city resounds with a regular turnover of styles, faces, groups and ages—before each spot was assigned to one artist only.
“This is the result of a long battle,” says Ugo Nativi, of renowned bluegrass street band Foneno. “We fought for diversity. Now our piazzas and streets can benefit from the many talents our city has to offer. For years, because of its rigid regulations Florence wasn’t on the map when foreign musicians came to Italy, but thanks to this new flexibility, even international buskers can consider touring here. All they have to do is book their permit in advance through the City of Florence’s Artisti di Strada bureau.”
The Ponte Vecchio, piazza della Repubblica, piazzale Michelangelo, piazza Santa Maria Novella, piazza Santa Croce, via Martelli: these are just some of the designated areas where street musicians can perform and add their magic to Florence’s emotionally charged urban landscape. Could this be the beginning of a new perception of street art?
“American audiences are used to this specific self-made form of expression, but Florence isn’t New York. Street art still hasn’t managed to be conceived as a dignified profession,” says Giulio Bracaloni, of retro trio I Citofoni, one of the newest entries on the street scene.
“In general, playing on the streets is an exciting experience. People aren’t as filled with expectation as they would be at a concert, and there is always a sense of discovery and surprise when you stumble upon live music in an unusual context.”
Legendary Florentine folk-singer Claudio Spadi, self-defined “Boston-born and Florence-torn” Derek James Mattucchio (check out his gofundme campaign for his first solo album), opera singer Beatriz Oyarzabal Pinan, guitar player Francesco Bassi are a few of the names on our colorful street music scene. Given the nomadic nature of these live acts, we’re unable to suggest a fixed itinerary. Our advice: use this article as inspiration to experience the city with open eyes and ears.
