Beachcombing, sunbathing and sagra-hopping are quintessential activities of the Tuscan summer, but there’s more to the sunny season than meets the eye. Not all of Tuscany is chiuso per ferie: check out the wide range of events all over the region.
#MAREMMA
Festambiente
August 5–15
Go green at this eco-focused, family-friendly festival in the Natural Park of the Maremma (Rispescia, GR). Hosted by environmental organization Legambiente, the Festambiente features a variety of educational and entertaining events promoting love for planet Earth. Political demonstrations with prominent Italian ministers will take place nightly. Lighter highlights include a children’s garden, canoeing and hiking excursions, organic markets, bio-bars and restaurants, plus theatrical performances and concerts (Cristiano De André takes the stage on August 6). For the full program and a map, see the website.
#BARGA
Fish and Chip Festival
July 27–August 17
A little slice of Scotland lives in the tiny medieval town of Barga, which faces the Apuan Alps. Rumor has it that the Duke of Argyll vacationed here and drummed up local workers to take back to work on his land. That population moved back and forth, creating a sizable Scottish community in the town over time. Barga’s blended history inspired the Fish and Chips Festival, held every year in the Stadio Comunale (via Puccini.) Feast on the fried treats (or enjoy gluten-free options each Friday to Sunday throughout the festival). For more information, see the Facebook page.
#SIENA
Divine Beauty: Dreaming Siena
Until September 30
High technology and history come together in this vibrant 3D videomapping show, which uses the monuments of piazza del Duomo as its screen. At 9.30pm on Monday through Saturday, audiences can take a multi-sensory trip through Siena’s civic history, getting a sense of how the local soul took shape through the centuries. Characters from famous artworks like Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s The Effects of Good Government come to life, along with plenty of personaggi from Siena’s past: nobles and artists, blacksmiths and bakers, grocers and government officials. Arrive early for a tasting of local specialties before the show starts. Reservations can be made by emailing opasiena@operalaboratori.com or calling 0577/286300.
#FUCECCHIO
Reality Bites + Soup Sagra
July 15–17 and 21–24
Massarella, a tiny hamlet near Fucecchio, has a history and identity that’s celebrated each year at the locally legendary Sagra della Zuppa. Travel here to taste a staple of true contadina cooking: a soup made with stale Tuscan bread, boiled cannellini beans, olive oil, cavolo nero and a hearty mix of vegetables. Dinners are served in piazza XXIII Agosto and paired with free concerts, all part of the Reality Bites music festival. The lineup includes Statuto, The Bluebeaters, Perturbazione, Landlord, Verano, Calcutta, Gino Paoli & Danilo Rea and several other artists. Shows begin at 9pm. For additional information, see Massarella’s official website.
#TUSCANY
Calici di Stelle
August 6–14
Raise your glasses! This beloved weeklong tradition takes place in numerous wineries around the whole Boot, toasting to San Lorenzo, whose feast day is August 10. Organized by the Movimento Turismo del Vino Toscana, Calici di Stelle’s program features sunset tastings, nighttime openings of wineries, tours and talks, with many of the highlights taking place in the Brunello production area in the Val d’Orcia. For the first time, designated wineries are teaming up with street food producers from across Italy, who will offer up samples of their tastiest treats—think Sicilian arancini, fried delights from Le Marche or lampredotto from Florence. For the full list of events and participating wineries, see the Movimento Turismo del Vino Toscana website.
#CORTONA
Cortona On the Move
July 14–October 2
An employee of “Jetpack Cayman” demonstrates this new watersport, now available on the island. © Paolo Woods-Gabriele Galimberti. The Heavens-COTM
Frances Mayes may have put Cortona on the world map, but this international festival helps keep it there: in 2013, TIME listed Cortona on the Move as one of the year’s top ten worldwide events. Exhibitions spotlight extraordinary photographers of our time (this year’s lineup includes Larry Towell, Mattia Zoppellaro and Darcy Padilla, among others), telling contemporary stories from varied cultures and viewpoints. In addition to the big names, emerging artists’ work is exhibited at the OFFCircuit (Cortona’s Vecchio Ospedale). Lectures, presentations, portfolio reviews and workshops are also part of the program. View the full program on the website.
#PISTOIA
Damien Rice
July 16, 9pm
A headliner of this year’s Pistoia Blues, this singular Irish songbird brings his folksy sound to piazza del Duomo for the festival’s grand finale. Rice rose to international fame after his debut album O (2002) spawned three top-30 singles in the UK. The opener for this soon-to-sell-out show—Rice’s only Italian performance this year—is Gyda, formerly of the Icelandic group mùm. Tickets start at 35 euro and are available via TicketOne and in BoxOffice Toscana locations. For additional information, see the Pistoia Blues website.
