Summer’s over and thoughts in the Maremma turn to vino without exception. The annual vendemmia, or grape harvest, is an all-encompassing state of mind. Even if you’re not a wine drinker, you’re swept up in the euphoria of the vendemmia. It’s a celebration that can be traced back to the first Etruscans who smuggled their grapes across the Mediterranean. In recent years, the locals have become even fiercer and more protective of the tradition in light of the siccità (drought) that has rendered winemaking all the more difficult in this part of the region.