Vitique, so chic: a review

Vitique, so chic: a review

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Sun 06 Feb 2022 12:00 PM

Vitique has been on my restaurant radar since opening back in the summer of 2015. In plain sight along the via Chiantigiana, on the final stretch into Greve, this fine dining restaurant with a predictable passion for wine is worth the winding route from Florence.

 

 

Vitique

Vitique, a fine dining restaurant near Greve in Chianti

 

 

First things first, Vitique makes no bones about the fact it belongs to the Santa Margherita wine group, which began life in Veneto before expanding to Alto Adige and purchasing established estates throughout Italy: Lamole di Lamole, Sassoregale and Vistarenni in Tuscany, Torresella in Veneto, Ca’ del Bosco and Cà Maiol in Lombardy, Terreliade in Sicily, and Cantina Mesa in Sardinia. So, it comes as no surprise to discover these labels on proud display like holy vinous grails the moment diners cross the threshold into the industrial chic interior. Exactly like walking into a design-driven winery, the severity of the cage-like corrugated weathered steel is offset by arched windows with Tuscan views, bespoke wooden furnishings and the finest linen tablecloths, as well as the cosiest of chairs; once ensconced, you find it hard to leave your well-appointed table. And why would you want to? A flute of 2016 Ca’ del Bosco pinot bianco bubbles is served as a quintet of appetizers is set down before us: a parmesan puff, sea urchin with black truffle, foie gras and quince terrine, and beef cheek taco. There’s nothing discreet about the tastes and textures here: chef Antonio Guerra’s culinary prowess is on full display: “Working for a group like Santa Margherita meant that we were able to keep being creative throughout lockdown. My sous chef and I suddenly had time on our hands to develop new dishes and work on new flavours.” 

 

 

Rabbit 2020 at Vitique

 

 

The sommelier returns to drizzle Lamole di Lamole extra-virgin olive oil into taupe pottery saucers before using a Coravin to draft a seductive glass of 2018 orange-hued Soave made from old Garganega vines. What comes next is one of the most unusual dishes I’ve tasted recently: rabbit tartare smoked with cherry and oak wood chips served with a plum sauce that the chef tells us requires two months of maceration. More than a passing resemblance to hunter’s chicken, this dish throws down the oven gauntlet and invites diners to guess at the ingredients and their order, rather like Wordle. Bold and brilliant, cuttlefish-filled pasta rounds are topped with the earthiest scented morals before pulled pork-esque veal arrives smothered sensationally in BBQ sauce (paired with two Gran Selezione Chianti Classico from Lamole di Lamole—one single vineyard from 2016 and one estate blend from 2018, the latter is beyond entrancing), the oiliness cut through with a refreshing fennel and orange salad.

 

 

Cuttlefish-filled pasta rounds topped with morals at Vitique

 

 

 

Luscious Lamole vin santo and a seasonal zabaglione that tastes like Christmas in a dish provide the culmination of our tasting menu adventure in Chianti Classico.

 

 

 

Via Citille 43B, 50022 Greti 

www.vitique.it

@vitiquerestaurant

+39 055 9332941

Prices start at 70 euro for a five-course tasting menu + 40 euro for wine pairings

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