A blue mist entices travellers towards the mystical Pratomagno mountain range as I follow the Strada del Vino Terre di Arezzo signs. Poppies colour the country lanes, tractors slow down the pace and obsolete wine presses mark the myriad farmstays, while rocky outcrops, known as balze, dating to the Pliocene when the area was covered by a lake, appear by the side of the road. This triangle of Tuscany between Florence, Siena and Arezzo is home to the Valdarno di Sopra wine region, which has produced some of the region’s most convincing bottles since the founding of the DOC in 2011. Although the controlled designation of origin is recent, grapes have been grown here since Etruscan times, as documented by Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia in the first century AD and Cosimo III de’ Medici included Valdarno di Sopra, alongside Chianti, Pomino and Carmignano, in his famous 1716 edict governing winemaking through the grand duchy.
Tenuta Sette Ponti
Our first port of call is the iconic Tenuta Sette Ponti, a gravel road sweeping past a green sea of healthy vines. Despite boasting a cult status on the international wine scene, the estate is a functional garagiste-style winery that produces no more than 250,000 bottles for every vintage. An unapologetically makeshift farm structure is home to steel vats, an outbuilding houses the big barrels, and the international varietals age separately in the historic cellar before being blended. What makes Sette Ponti so captivating as a place are the spectacular views towards the hilltop town of Loro Ciuffenna on one side and Pratomagno on the other, in addition to the villa where former fashion entrepreneur Antonio Moretti Cuseri still resides in between travels to his wineries in Sicily, Maremma and Bolgheri. Highlights include the old Sangiovese (some Trebbiano) vineyard planted back in 1935 by the original owner Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta and the Viceroy of Ethiopia, and the experimental vineyard showing how the estate’s varietals grow with bush training. Tastings take place in the picture-postcard lemon house, where visitors can book ahead for appointments from Monday to Friday. The Vigna di Pallino Chianti 2022 and Vigna di Pallino Chianti Superiore 2021 both shine during my visit, refreshing and fruit-forward, while Vigna dell’Impero 2018 displays Brunello-like tendencies underscored by the area’s trademark salinity. No visit to Tenuta Sette Ponti (referring to the number of bridges between Florence and Arezzo) would be complete without sipping the legendary Bordeaux-inspired Oreno, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Verdot, which continues to score highly in leading publications like Wine Spectator.
Il Borro
Bordering Tenuta Sette Ponti to the north is Il Borro Relais & Châteaux. The renowned organic wine estate and luxury accommodation owned by the Ferragamo family since 1993 provides the perfect base to explore the Valdarno di Sotto region. Holidaymakers delight in the elegant country-style rooms and suites, while unwinding at the on-site La Corte spa with a stylish infinity pool. Based on produce grown on the estate, executive chef Andrea Campani prepares gourmet yet sustainable offerings in a farm-to-table dining experience. Well-known for its convincing and classy wines, Il Borro vaunts 85 hectares under vine planted mostly with Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay. What draws oenophiles to the Valdarno property are the stunning barrique tunnel and the historic cellars, which sees tastings and original pairings such as wine and chocolate. Horse riding, cycling tours and hiking enable guests to explore the pristine nature surrounding Il Borro.
Tenuta San Jacopo
DCIM/PANORAMA/100_4313/DJI
Due west of these two estates lies Tenuta San Jacopo, a relative newcomer to the wine scene, whose first vintage dates to 2004. Rose bushes encircle the winery with verdant vineyard views, which can be enjoyed in the seven rustic and contemporary apartments in former farm buildings, each named after a native Tuscan grape or olive cultivar. Designed for week-long rentals, the apartments are equipped with kitchenettes and dining tables, plus outdoor seating around a large lawn and access to a well-maintained pool. The winery is functional for the 100,000 bottles produced here every year with a glamorous tasting room for up to 20 people among French tonneaux and barriques. Milanese proprietor Costantino Cattaneo welcomes me to the estate, explaining the business sense of ceasing vin santo production in favour of Erboli, a classy, honeyed and bodied Trebbiano, adding Orma di Diavolo, an opulent Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon cuvee, while respecting a 1990s vineyard planted with Sangiovese that results in the rich single-cru Vigna Mulino. Renovation is currently underway on the 18th-century villa that steals the show on the other side of the country lane near Montevarchi. Expected to open in 2025, the noble residence once owned by the Soldani Benzi family will become a wedding and events venue.
