Barbar: full-comfort dining

Barbar: full-comfort dining

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Tue 08 Oct 2024 11:33 AM

Take a right off busy via Gioberti, duck under a short tunnel and you will re-emerge in a haven of tranquillity. A residential street, via Luna is planted every which way with greenery and a prolific American vine-covered wall forms the natural boundary of our destination: Barbar

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Managed by chef Vanni Romoli and his partner Manuela Bottigliero, the inner courtyard beguiles with emerald-tone tables, bistro chairs and parasols to the satisfying sound of pebbles underfoot. There’s little wonder that locals like to while away an hour or two alfresco all year round in this cosy cortile, sipping one of barlady Giulia’s creative cocktails. (We’re intrigued by PB & Jam, a peanut butter-infused pisco and red fruit coulis, and spicy Tepache mocktail made with fermented pineapple and a quartet of warming spices.) From 6pm onwards, Vanni starts breaking out the tapas, especially his signature salt cod croquettes with lime mayo. “It’s not unknown for our clients to order another portion of crocchette, even instead of dessert,” Manuela laughs. Looking at the tapas menu, you’d be tempted to order one of everything: tuna tartare, avocado and sesame seeds; toast served with anchovies and butter or oil-packed tuna and orange; chicken liver crostini; and so forth.

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When the autumn nights start drawing in and dinner (from 7.30pm) becomes an indoor affair, Barbar does not disappoint. Ultra-high ceilings, grey-washed walls and a characterful industrial floor have been upcycled from the former tile factory that once occupied the premises. One of the side rooms, perfect for private dining, comes equipped with an old set of wheels that were used to draw down the water from the concrete tank that still stands sturdily on the roof. Three years in the making, Vanni’s mamma, Monica Lupi, the renowned antiquarian, gallerist and interior designer, brings trademark flair to Barbar in an extension of her cabinet of curiosities showroom and restoration studio just down the alleyway. Wall-mounted lights fashioned on 19th-century cabinet legs, graphic art in primary colours—all purchasable—and tropical plants galore, the overall effect is a comforting vibe.

Barbar is like a living room. We want people to feel at home through attentive and affectionate service.” 

Via Luna is where Vanni grew up and where he and Manuela now live, which is reflected in the respectful hours of operation. Barbar closes no later than 12.30am, even at weekends. “Over the years, via Luna has become a passageway, but before there was just a garage, which is still here, a steelworks and a blacksmith.” A dad and his giggling son and a businessman on a moped were seen cutting through the country-like vicolo while we were there, while the well-maintained planters and immaculate front doors pay testament to the locals who live in the village-like ambience. 

Why the name Barbar? Vanni looks up at a grainy yet evocative photograph in the main dining room. “My dad lived in Malindi, in Kenya, so did I, and there’s this bar/restaurant there called Barbar. Here we initially opened just as a bar with a kitchen, but because I’m a chef and because the locale has evolved, it became double the situation, hence Barbar. Our menu has been studied to serve quick, quality cuisine.” A glance at the lunch and dinner options reveals little indication of space restrictions, however, from Nonna Mara’s meatballs to orecchio di elefante, an XL breaded and fried cutlet, while vegetarian, fish and lighter choices are equally present due to Vanni’s chefing experiences along the Tuscan coast in Versilia. 

NB. If you’re in Florence on the weekend, chatter has been circulating about just how good the brunch is at Barbar. Plus, it’s honestly priced too. Eggs Royale, Benedict and Florentine, avocado toast, plus extras, well-stacked club sandwiches and burgers are washed down with a mean Bloody Mary or gelato-based milkshake

Barbar

Via Luna 1. Tel. +39 055 669007

Wednesday to Sunday 12.30am-2.30pm + 6pm-12.30am. Tuesday 6pm-12.30am. Closed Mondays

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