Every year on Easter Sunday, Florentines celebrate the Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the Cart), an event that dates back to the First Crusade when Pazzino de’ Pazzi, a native Florentine soldier, entered the holy city of Jerusalem and became the first man to climb the city walls. In exchange for his bravery, his commander presented him with pieces of stone from the Holy Sepulchre, the site where Jesus is believed to have been buried after the Crucifixion. After Pazzino returned to Florence, he began to use these stones to start a ‘holy fire’ during Holy Week. This fire would be carried throughout the city as a religious symbol for all Florentines.
Beginning in the Middle Ages, around the year 1300, Florentines started constructing a highly decorated cart, or carro, designed to transport the flame. The procession would start at the Church of Santi Apostoli, where the original shards of stone are still housed, and continue through the city until it reached the Piazza del Duomo. In the early sixteenth century, a new tradition started, which made the event even more spectacular than before. Once the cart arrived in the Piazza del Duomo (usually between the Baptistery and the cathedral), the bishop of the city would set fire to a dove-shaped rocket, called the colombina, and release it across the piazza toward the cart, which was covered in fireworks. The explosion, or brindellone, dates back to a pagan tradition designed to bring good luck to the city. If the cart exploded as it was supposed to and without any hitches, peace and prosperity would reign over Florence for the next year. If not, bad luck was sure to come.
Over the 900-year history of the Scoppio del Carro, the celebration has undergone several changes. In 1494 the Pazzi family, which controlled all rights to the ceremony, built an indestructible cart designed to withstand the impact of the explosion. This cart is still used today, though it has undergone several restorations during the past 500 years.
By the eighteenth century, the once simple carro had become a 30-foot tall goliath, which was divided into four separate compartments. Small boys used to ride in each of these compartments, and a poor man, wearing fur to symbolize Florence’s patron saint, St. John the Baptist, would pass out candy, food and other treats from the top of the cart.
Despite many changes over the years, the procession still has many similarities to the original. On Easter morning, the holy fire is kindled, using the original holy stones, at the church of Santi Apostoli. The fire is used to light a candle, which is placed in the decorated cart. The cart is pulled through the city by two white oxen, leaving from Porta a Prato and ending at the Piazza del Duomo. The Archbishop blesses the fire and sprinkles the crowd with holy water. Afterwards, the Archbishop and several city officials and representatives enter the church. Once the Archbishop begins the Gloria, the colombina is lit and a magnificent pyrotechnic display lights up the piazza outside. If something goes awry, don’t worry. A fireman hides inside the cart to ensure the cart explodes and brings good luck to the city.
This year, the Scoppio del Carro will take place on 16 April at 11am.
