Here comes Christmas and the chill of the December air in Florence is sweetened with the enticing aromas of artisan bakers making Tony's Bread, pan di Toni. This famous fifteenth- century Milanese Christmas cake, known in Italian as panettone, is now the national Christmas cake of Italy. Many competing stories claim to reveal the origins of panettone. Some say Toni invented this yeast-leavened, light, sweet bread perfumed with citrus peel to impress his lover; others say the sweet cake was invented by a nun to impress her fellow sisters. Whichever it is, it is certainly a labour of love, as making panettone is not a quick process.