Through May 3, the Museo del Tessuto is hosting a major exhibition dedicated to two French fashion icons. Azzedine Alaïa and Cristóbal Balenciaga. Sculptors of Shape is curated by Olivier Saillard, in partnership with the Paris-based Azzedine Alaïa Foundation in Paris chaired by Carla Sozzani and the involvement of the Balenciaga Archives.
A visit to the exhibition is a great opportunity for a walk in Prato.
A few months after the death of Azzedine Alaïa (Tunis 1935 – Paris 2017) and decades after that of Balenciaga (Getaria 1895 – Jávea 1972), as a great admirer of Balenciaga and a key figure in classical fashion, Hubert de Givenchy shared his wish with the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation to bring the two great talents together in an exhibition, both skilled experimenters with shapes and volumes that have profoundly marked the history of fashion.
Twenty-five creations by Azzedine Alaïa dialogue with the same number of garments by Cristóbal Balenciaga in a timeless comparison. Twelve original sketches by Balenciaga dating to between 1950 and 1968, some of which include technical notes for tailoring and fabric samples, are on show in Italy for the very first time alongside photos of the garments being worn.
Alaïa and Balenciaga are united by the art of couture, meticulous tailoring and the accentuation of the feminine form. Both designers share humble beginnings (Balenciaga in Spain, Alaïa in Tunisia), learning how to sew within their families and later achieving success with an influential Parisian clientele. Fabric is the shared creative medium, but while Balenciaga shaped his creations in wool, satin and silk, such as the innovative gazar he invented in 1958, Alaïa transformed knits until it became a signature of his craft, using leather to sculpt and shape bodies. Balenciaga decided to close down his atelier rather than convert to ready-to-wear, and Alaïa put an end to the incessant treadmill of one collection after another, instead boldly choosing when to present his work.
The exhibition is completed by a film on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa made by Joe McKenna, fashion editor and stylist, and a never-before-seen video featuring the presentations of Balenciaga’s Haute Couture Summer 1960 and 1968 collections from Balenciaga Archives in Paris.
The exhibition at the Museo del Tessuto follows recent showcases about Gianfranco Ferrè (2014) and Walter Albini, the father of Italian prêt-à-porter (2024), and English designers such as Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell (2022), protagonists of the London scene of the 1960s and 1970s.
Museo del Tessuto is open Tuesday to Thursday 10am-3pm, Friday and Saturday 10am-7pm, and Sunday 3-7pm. Closed on Monday.
A walk in Prato
Arriving at Prato Porta al Serraglio train station means stepping into a city centre shaped by art, piazzas and a proud industrial heritage. Just a few steps lead to Santo Stefano Cathedral, where the green-and-white marble façade is adorned by Donatello’s unique external pulpit and Filippo Lippi’s fresco cycle inside provides timeless harmony.
Stroll along via Garibaldi and stop at Nuovo Mondo Pasticceria for local sweet treat pesche di Prato.
Between Palazzo Pretorio and the Town Hall, with the Datini statue and the Bacchino Fountain, everyday life flows to the rhythm of open-air cafés. Along via Ricasoli, visit Biscottificio Mattei for the world-famous cantucci or stop at Atipico for typical Prato specialties and Carmignano wines.
A short stroll leads to piazza delle Carceri, where the Castello dell’Imperatore dominates, while the Church of Santa Maria delle Carceri, designed by Giuliano da Sangallo, adds Renaissance elegance.
The final stop is the former Campolmi textile mill, now the Textile Museum. The stunning regeneration of this industrial architecture has an international vibe and is worth seeing alone, also including the Biblioteca Lazzerini. Don’t miss the museum shop for creative finds.
On the way back to the station, walk down via Settesoldi for affordable food and drinks, while Bottega serves one of the best gin and tonics in town and Hegel has a refined wine selection in a former gelateria. Don’t leave before tasting sedani alla pratese, a speciality of celery stuffed with beef, at historic restaurants Baghino or Soldano.
