Polimoda previews fashion research centre at Manifattura Tabacchi

Polimoda previews fashion research centre at Manifattura Tabacchi

AN/ARCHIVE EVENT ONE offers a contemplative journey through interpretations of the body in fashion.

Wed 10 Jan 2024 10:29 AM

Polimoda has presented AN/ARCHIVE EVENT ONE, a preview of the future research center and exhibition space for fashion studies that will be open to all.

From January 9 to 21 at Manifattura Tabacchi, EVENT ONE is a multidisciplinary experience centered on the theme of the body and its relationship with fashion as the canvas on which designers express their creativity. Split into two sections in the attic of the regenerated tobacco factory on the west side of Florence, archival garments from the A.N.G.E.L.O. Vintage Archive are starkly framed by the rough concrete architecture, while mannequin-centric works by Minna Palmqvist, William Forsythe’s video art and Sissel Tolaas’ smell-based installation feature beside mirrored panels formerly used in a Gucci show.

Curated by Massimiliano Giornetti, director of Polimoda, and Linda Loppa, the school’s strategy and vision advisor, each piece tells a unique story that reflects on the varied approaches of contemporary designers. From corseting by Maison Margiela and Dolce & Gabbana to the looser draping of Romeo Gigli, Issey Miyake and Vivienne Westwood, the exhibition testifies to how fashion is constantly evolving and impacting social trends and personal expression.

“The awareness of sociological change is read through the evolution of the perception of the person, explains Massimiliano Giornetti. “What we see in the mirror is not a reflection of true corporeity, but rather an emotional state and connection to a constantly changing figure. EVENT ONE is therefore meant to be an authentic emotional journey that invites us to meditate on the discordant nuances of our body identity.”  

The exhibition space will also host a programme of talks with leading authors, experts and fashion researchers, sparking conversations on the role of archiving, diversity in the representation of the body and the evolving dynamics of the fashion industry. Some of these meetings will be available online, such as the conversation with Paola Antonelli titled ‘MoMa, The Museum of Modern Art, New York. A Conversation on Research, Salons, Archives and Objects Telling Stories’ and Valerie Steele on ‘The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology: Collecting, Conserving, Documenting, Exhibiting, and Interpreting Fashion’.

Once the exhibition closes on January 21, a respectful renovation will begin on the permanent space, which is likely to open in September. Polimoda is open to considering fashion donations as part of the extensive archive.


Polimoda, Building B4 at Manifattura Tabacchi, via delle Cascine 35

January 9-21

2 to 8pm

Free admission

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