There are times when a chance meeting puts everything into perspective. This was one of those times. Not only did the meeting bring life into perspective, but it showed a little-known side of Florence, reminding us that not only do we live in a bastion of history’s greatest art, but also in a bastion of great humanity.
At dinner one evening, a friend brought their life partner, someone I was meeting for the first time. His name is Giacomo Morelli, a kind red-haired gentleman, and I was seated next to him. We chatted about the people we had in common because Florence is an international village at the end of the day. I asked Giacomo what he did for work. He spent a few years in his family’s fashion business, followed by two decades in international marketing, however for the past two and half years, he had been the director of a cooperativa sociale, a specific type of enterprise whose model was established in 1991 to serve social wellbeing and the common good, rather than maximizing shareholder profit. The mission is democratic: one member, one vote. Profits are re-invested into the mission itself. Giacomo mentioned that the cooperative welcomes disabled members of the community, providing them with a place where they can feel valued and be guided on a path towards independence through artisanal and agricultural workshops.
Fontenuova sits on a beautiful, verdant and hilly two and a half hectares on the line between Florence and Ponte a Ema. I entered the gate and walked up to an 1980s-style deconsecrated church. I was told I would find the heart of the cooperativa inside. Giacomo was on his way, and he asked me to see a certain Vanni Materassi, who would tell me about his work.
I entered what was once a large, open, modern church, sunlight pouring in, the generous open space dappled in vibrant color coming from the stained glass cross sitting high above what must have once been the altar. The space was full of arts and crafts, delicate wood weaving looms, worktables layered with jars of jams, marmalades and flowers, gift packages, and people sitting at long, plastic covered tables animatedly filling bags with some kind of materials. Suddenly, they turned to me all at once. One person asked who I was looking for. “Vanni,” I said. An excited blonde lady, screamed out, “Vanni, there’s a man looking for you!”
Vanni literally “appeared”. A tall, imposing fellow, tattoos, a large earring hanging from one ear, a “tough guy” from the movies, but with kind eyes. He asked me into his office overlooking the valley. I started asking questions about the space, the work, and no sooner did he start to answer when a sweet older man by the name of Gabriele popped his head in the door. Gabriele is 63, but has the countenance of a child, face worn with age, but somehow timeless. Vanni asked, “Gabriele, how can I help you?”
Gabriele pulled his dentures out of his pocket and looked innocently at Vanni. Vanni turned behind him and pulled out a tube of denture adhesive, filled the dentures, handed them back to Gabriele, who did his installation. The gentility of this massive man as he helped made me choke up. Sweet Gabriele was so intent on saying hello that he held out his hand to shake mine. Vanni jumped in, “Gabriele, you just put your teeth in your mouth! You can’t shake someone’s hand without washing!” Gabriele laughed, hugging Vanni with deep affection. At this point, I’m swallowing tears, so it’s a relief when Vanni is called back into the main room.
I collect myself. It’s time to meet the “guests” of the Fontenuova Day Center. There’s Asia, who is proud of the jams she makes: strawberries and mint. Manuel chimes in that he also makes the preserves. Riccardo and Francesco chat excitedly and show me their projects: weaving looms, flower arrangements, jars of jam. Riccardo and I walk arm in arm. There’s not a negative bone in his body. All kindness. He just wants a hug.
Laura, a gentle, older volunteer, works in her apron like a doting mother. No one talks down to anyone. Not the five educators, not the volunteer staff, none of the “guests”. The cooperativa was established in 1986. Some, like Gabriele, have been coming several times a week for the last 30 years.
Giacomo arrives on his motorbike. He is all smiles and clearly proud of his charges as they greet him. He explains that the “guests” come to him from the state welfare department, that they are part of a system and are assigned to Fontenuova from the local area. Here, they learn to perform household chores and to work, so that they can become autonomous and active members of society. They are taught to live, work and be contributing members of society. And they are…Local businesses and markets count on them. Whether it is the nearby Radisson hotel that orders gift boxes, flower arrangements, scents and oils, the local markets that rely on the gourmet jams and honey produced on location, where “guests” are taught to understand how bees keep our planet buzzing, or the weaving and fabrics used for gifts. It is also a given that the products are of the highest quality. Other locals donate their services, such as label design, IT consulting, whatever is needed.
I asked Giacomo how he landed up as the director of Fontenuova. He told me that his mother had been a volunteer and that, several years ago, the director was about to retire and the position became available. It took him barely a day to decide. He wanted to contribute. There is an abundance of generosity that is so overwhelming that it’s no wonder Giacomo chose this as his next life’s project. He tells me about the housing that is offered to support the “guests” or those in need. He shows me the grounds: the lavender fields and rose gardens, where the cooperative’s “guests” carry out their workshops, supported by educators and volunteers, thereby bringing cosmetics to life, such as essential oils and scented waters.
Overwhelmed, I make my way to the gate to pick up my taxi. I thank Giacomo and look out at the hills of Florence. The soft rolling hills and the silver olive trees glistening in the sun on a Thursday afternoon in May. The breeze is delicate, the leaves make their whispering music. I look back up the hill to the church behind me. Florence is the most beautiful and the most human place in the world.
