At the recent Paris shows, John Galliano presented his Dior collection with a silhouette inspired by the famous ‘New Look’, first presented in 947 by fashion master Christian Dior himself. The outfit is composed of a very tight jacket similar to a bustier in its construction, paired with an extremely full skirt. The effect gives the wearer a sensuous hourglass shape.
Revolutionary during its post-war debut, the combination signaled a return to a feminine and elegant silhouette. The shape, however, was not the only revolutionary aspect of the new style: the astounding amount of fabric required to construct the garments were a clear sign of support for the textile industry, in desperate need of help to get out of a period of serious crisis.
Could this have also been Galliano’s message? During this crisis moment are designers seeking to create (and sell) the empiric look of the ‘dream lady’ to re-start the troubled high fashion industry and promote the glamorous life once again?
While this scenario might give couture gurus something to ponder, a different kind of future was on display at this year’s Pitti Filati knitwear fair, held in Florence during the last weekend in January. Urbanize-me Humanize-me was the theme of this year’s show, which starred the modern city as a product of post-industrial urbanization, a point of attraction and concentration of the different ethnicities, cultures and customs.
The Trend and Research area included the Fashion at Work section, dedicated to the most advanced services and technologies for the textile and clothing industries, as well as a focus section that showcased the latest innovations in eco- and ethically sustainable yarns in order to expand knowledge about and direct attention to yarns with health and wellness related properties.
Judging from the Paris shows and Pitti Filati, we can gleam that ecological garments and ultra-modern looks are in store for us right now. New materials, experimental techniques, avant-garde finishing contrast with the search for something more pure, simple, in a word natural. Our generation’s ‘new look’ won’t likely be masses of fabric used to create a sexy silhouette, but will be truly innovative as designers aspire to a natural look made of organic fibers that are respectful of our environment and might make us feel both less stressed and more glamorous.
With this in mind, enjoy the remaining days of the winter sales. Look for items that will be still fashionable next fall and new, fresh, ‘springy’ pieces that will still be glam in spring 2010! Green is the color to bet on, especially for spring. But be on the lookout for a new feminine shade of beige with a touch of powder pink: ‘greyge’!
The bohemian look is still in, though it has now taken a more romantic turn, with soft volumes and lots of pleating and ruffle details. A perfect urban look for the new season is masculine-sporty with white pants and tank tops mixed with light grey and accents of fluorescent colors. To keep it fresh for fall, just replace the white with black and you are ready to conquer the city. In the evening, dare to wear fancy heels embroidered for a touch of glam, denim pants and an oriental silk top (or dress if you feel more sexy).
Finally, don’t forget about vintage! If the new haute couture is looking back to the late 40s and early 50s, why not look for some interesting pieces to give that chic final touch to your ‘new look’…and what’s more ecological than recycling?
To give your opinion or suggest new subjects please contact me at style@theflorentine.net.
Up next: Fresh fashion direct from Milan fashion week.
