Fall is here: time to forget about summer breezes, tanned legs to show off and flowing white linen dresses. The amazing autumn colors of Tuscany are, however, reason enough to get excited about the new season, as are the warm layers of fabric that cover and embrace our bodies in the season’s new take on femininity. The softness and versatility of knitwear is the perfect way to face fall feeling sexy and comfortable. All of the big names of the fashion industry have been focusing their collections on knit pieces that will please even the most demanding of fashionistas.
The yarn sector is, in fact, setting itself apart as one of the most dynamic areas of fashion, experimenting with the use of innovative synthetic fibres while at the same time offering a wide variety of natural ones. Moreover, Pitti Filati has made Florence the center for the worldwide knitwear market: this key industry event sets the course for seasonal trends.
Knitwear has long been stereotyped as something traditional and old fashioned, something that recalls a nonna on the couch, crocheting or stitching a patchwork blanket or bulky Christmas-present sweater with no shape or style. Today’s knit world is proving this cliché wrong. Not only are young yarn connoisseurs meeting to knit alternative garments and accessories, but new ‘knit cafes’ are opening all over Europe (Prato-based firm BettaKnit held a series of ‘knitting lessons’ at Mama’s Bakery in Florence, see www.bettaknit.com for upcoming ‘lessons’). This creative buzz is due mostly to Italian and European avant-garde brands that have garnered recent success with edgy, conceptual knitwear; long-lasting, quality pieces with design value made to bypass seasonal trends.
One example of this movement in knitwear is Patafisic, an independent brand founded by all-Florentine designer Brenda Cecchi. For 10 years this label, inspired by art and conceptual style, has set the trends, not followed them. In a recent chat with Brenda, I discovered that the name Patafisic was chosen in honour of a French poetry movement of the 50s and 60s in which artists and writers built their art upon the concept of ‘nothingness.’ Brenda started her adventure as a student of architecture creating a do-it-yourself knit kit that won a Japanese design contest and allowed her to launch her career in fashion.
The company, built over the years by a team of four, is founded on the principle of paying keen attention to shapes and construction, using a mathematical approach that stems from Brenda’s architectural background. At Patafisic, ‘structure’ is the mission statement. Items are created to be worn in a variety of ways, becoming design objects the women can play with. The use of high-quality fibers ensures the pieces’ long-lasting and good-feeling wear.
Patafisic shows its collections in Paris and delivers directly to buyers all around Europe, the United States and Asia. The company’s website, www.patafisic.com and a recently opened showroom right here in Florence, located on via del Drago D’Oro 11r, is evidence of business savvy: acute attention to the company’s customer base, connection with the region and relationship with local suppliers.
The prestige of the Made in Italy label is now in the hands of young and talented designers like Brenda who present their style projects with courage, believing that fashion should always value craftsmanship, innovation and, above all else, expressing garment value over the fast fashion-and fast money-of today’s world.
