Set along a row of nondescript storefronts in an area of Florence named after other countries (this one’s via Gran Bretagna), Ambar has no signage, just a warm and welcoming glow. It’s a deliberate move by owners Andrea Magnelli and Antonio Badalamenti, whose culinary skills are unparalleled when it comes to their own unique fusion of South American, Japanese and Italian cuisines.
Perched at the pass in this micro-restaurant that sits up to 20 pax at a push, a young, well-informed and hip crowd converse with chef Magnelli and his sous (also Andrea) as they chop, roast, cook, prepare and serve their singular fare. Although there are a la carta options, almost everyone plumbs for an omakase (meaning “I leave it up to you”) menu—why wouldn’t you when such flavourful five, six or seven courses cost 55, 65 and 75 euro). While I could try to name every dish one by one, what struck me the most were the masterful balance and impressive use of citruses, with delights such as limequats hailing from a specialist near Pistoia.
All eyes are on the robata grill, as it churns out smoky treats like wondrous mackerel-filled bao and skirt steak completed with the direct application of embers. The sushi crafted by the chef right in front of diners deserves an entire chapter of its own. San Carlo rice from the Maremma adds a Tuscan robustness as no problems are posed in devouring trout, tuna and amberjack nigiri and sashimi, served with strictly house-made ginger. The best is yet to come: a take on Thai green curry of extraordinary subtlety that I’ve been dreaming about ever since. Don’t miss this minuscule restaurant that packs a punch in Gavinana.
