In a city famed for steak and bread-based soups, it takes courage to open an international restaurant in a five-star hotel, but the great minds at W Florence are brave at heart. The first Akira Back restaurant in Italy marks a bold new chapter for the city’s cultural scene.
The separate entrance off piazza dell’Unità Italiana ushers diners through a groovy, glam time capsule of a welcome, where the maître d’ at her curved desk magically already knows your name. It’s an impressive start as you skirt the ice-bucket island charged with sparkling wines that meet the menu’s needs and the gin cart lined with imported bottles. Cuisine aside (and we’ll get to that shortly), the décor by Genius Loci Architettura and AvroKO is striking, sexy and sumptuous, rocking a retro 1960s and ‘70s vibe, while respecting the local artistic heritage with chic marble floors. Backlit artwork by the chef’s mother Young Hee Back draws the eye and her creativity also appears among the tableware.
Born in Seoul and raised in Aspen, Colorado, Akira Back is a professional snowboarder turned celebrity chef, who has built a global empire with 28 restaurants in world capitals and earned a Michelin star for his Dosa brand in Seoul and London. Luckily for us Florence dwellers, Akira Back Firenze showcases his singularly personal culinary philosophy, a conflation of flavours inspired by his American-Korean heritage and travels around the world, Japan first and foremost.
An evening at Arika Back Firenze (open Wednesday to Saturday for dinner only) begins with an aperitivo chosen from the cocktail list, each page’s texture a reflection of the smoothness of the drink. I opt for an Inari, a layered citrusy gem built around vodka, yuzu sake, traditional Japanese spirit kizan shochu and osmanthus flowers. It’s an enjoyable crossover into the chef’s world as the cinematic small plates start to appear before me. A duo of tacos—BBQ Korean beef and salmon + amberjack sashimi—are served on a bright green W frame, as a tribute to the sense of place. Full in flavour, all crunch and yum, they go down a treat. Next, signature dish AB Tuna Pizza is a fun-filled work of art in culinary form: bluefin tuna with umami aioli on a tortilla base, finished with white truffle oil. Since I’m dining solo, the kitchen halves the regular helping with an AB Eringi Pizza, the exact same dish yet featuring the defiant consistency of king oyster mushrooms. From the wine list, a Franciacorta is poured into my glass, the acidity acting as a counterpoint to the fattiness of the salmon belly sashimi presented alongside seabass on its own private island of ice.
You can’t come to Akira Back and not try the sushi. While the Brother From Another Mother Roll (unagi kabayaki, anago tempura, foie gras and ponzu aioli) will tempt me back, the Perfect Storm currently has my heart, a seductive combination of shrimp tempura, spicy tuna and salmon belly underscored by the subtle heat of chipotle mayo. An aside: soy sauce is served in a cup and fresh wasabi pasta in a dot, present yet not central to the experience. While more gluttonous desserts are on the menu, I close with a refreshing yuzu sorbet.
If you’re craving contemporary Japanese food with international influences, Akira Back at W Florence is the umami bomb for you. I’ll be back for the miso soup and kimchi fried rice this winter, that’s a promise.
This review is based on a dinner offered to The Florentine.
