It’s not every day that a Tuscan taqueria is momentarily shuttered because the Mexican government summoned the chef to Rome. But that’s exactly what happened to Tommaso Fontanella, when Tosco Tacos—his taco counter tucked into Sant’Ambrogio—received an honor most Mexican eateries can only aspire to.
On July 13, Fontanella traveled to Rome to accept prestigious Sello M at the Mexican Embassy on behalf of Tosco Tacos, a seal of authenticity granted by the Mexican Academy of Gastronomy through Mexico’s global network of embassies and consulates, reserved for establishments abroad that uphold the country’s culinary traditions, techniques and ingredients with genuine rigor. The ceremony was presided over by Mexico’s Ambassador to Italy, Genaro Lozano, and Florence’s Honorary Consul of Mexico, Valerio Alecci.
In addition to Fontanella, Riccardo Ricci, another Tuscan and founder of the Mexican food truck MotoTacos in Impruneta, received the same recognition at the Rome ceremony.
Honorary consul Alecci called it a point of pride that Tuscan projects earned the distinction, noting that Tuscany and Mexico share a deep attentiveness to ingredients, tradition and the preservation of food culture.
For Fontanella, the embassy itself was a revelation. “There was a beautiful simplicity that immediately felt warm and welcoming,” he said, describing the wooden sculptures, Mexican artwork and colorful textiles that filled the rooms. “Most embassies feel official and distant. This one felt more like walking into someone’s home, where every object had a story.”
The recognition, he said, confirms something he’s worked toward since he opened Tosco Tacos: earning the same respect for Mexican cuisine that Italians expect for their own. “I’ve always pushed back against the idea of Tex-Mex or fusion, not because there’s anything wrong with those flavors, but because they often become an excuse not to understand the traditions behind a cuisine,” he said. “Receiving this recognition tells us we’re on the right path.”
Ask him what dish earned that trust, and he doesn’t hesitate: the Taco de Suadero. “It represents Mexico City, the taco you eat late at night, standing on a street corner, craving something rich and comforting,” he said. The recipe has been refined for over a year and the real test, he said, is when someone from Mexico City orders three or four without hesitation.
Fontanella is candid that the obsession has only grown since opening. “Every month we become even more obsessive,” he said, describing an ongoing search for better ingredients and a growing circle of chef collaborations that push him and his staff to think differently about food.
But the recognition, he insists, belongs to more than just the kitchen. “I’d like to thank the Mexican community that believed in us from the beginning,” he said. “They trusted us with something deeply personal, the food they grew up with. Every ‘this tastes like home’ meant more than any review ever could.”
Tosco Tacos serves totopos, tacos, guacamole, and a curated wine and beer list at via Santa Verdiana 6R. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 12.30–2.30pm and 7.30–10pm.
This piece was written in collaboration with Tosco Tacos following the taqueria’s recognition by the Mexican Embassy.
