Life in Italy

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A chat with Elise Chapin

Before Elise Chapin and I ever met, our mothers were friends. Looking back on their era—the late 50s and 60s in Somerset County, New Jersey—their lives seems so distant from ...

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“The Young Pope”: post-truth and documented history

What “The Young Pope” does so well is that it offers a visceral whirlwind of intrigue, which unexpectedly turns notions of good and evil on its head.

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Memories of the 1966 Florence flood

While much has been accomplished to return the city and its incomparable treasures to their previous condition, many of the losses remain.

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Help Desk One

PERMESSO: the famous permesso di soggiorno, or permit to stay, which allows non-European Union citizens to legally stay in Italy. QUESTURA: the headquarters of the local Polizia di Stato, and ...

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The Florentine female

I once heard a Venetian friend, an aesthete, say that the Florentine female carries within her the harmony of the Renaissance city and the Tuscan landscape, shaped by hills and valleys ...

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British expats in Italy react to Brexit

On June 24, 51.9 per cent of the British people voted to leave the European Union. For the other 48.1 per cent in the Remain camp, the decision was marked ...

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A British expat’s take on Brexit

It’s 11.50pm. My marito has just gone to bed. I feel compelled to write something, anything, to document this historic day’s events. A day that will be remembered as the most ...

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Florence: forever in my heart

“Firenze, sei sempre nel mio cuore.” Those were the words I used to caption my last Instagram on my last night in Florence. As everyone was posting pictures and essay-long ...

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Florence’s eternal yesterday

When we returned home to the United States after our four-month stay, I gushed effusively about Florence.     Everyone asked what I enjoyed so much about it. I said ...

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The water diviner

In a part of Tuscany where old wives’ tales are canon, don’t be surprised to meet a modern-day water diviner.   Small Tuscan towns like mine are made up of ...

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My Tuscan Christmas at home in the Valdisieve

To this day, my mother-in-law still talks about the tacchinella and my mum about the tortellini served in salty broth—my lasting memory of Christmas in Tuscany? Total exhaustion at cooking (and interpreting) for my extended family.   Flying during the festive season just isn’t

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Florence On Call

It’s no secret that in Italy, ‘knowing a guy’ can cut the time you spend tackling your to-do list in half. But what if you could count on one go-to guy to help you conquer everything from chores and errands to travel and leisure?

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The Italian mystery of the missing toilet seats

It’s only fair to say that bathrooms in Italy in private homes are typically immaculate: they approach a standard of almost Germanic cleanliness. Bathrooms in public places, however, are an ...

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On the threshing floor

Started five years ago, Montespertoli’s A Veglia sulle Aie celebrates its agricultural heritage: the land, its fruits and the traditions of this farming community.   Having spent most of my childhood growing up on one of these Tuscan farms, a favorite memory of mine is catching lucciole, fireflies,

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Trying temperatures

‘Single friends! Don’t have a/c at home? Want to try a marriage without commitment? For loan, Italian husband sensitive to gusts of cold wind, available for warm summer nights…so I ...

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Casa Ronald

If Florence is your adopted home, you’ll know the importance of being surrounded by family. But no one understands the importance of family better than the children at Casa Ronald in Firenze.  Located down the street from Meyer Pediatric Hospital, the Ronald McDonald House in Florence hosts

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Foraging for asparagus in the Maremma

It’s a beautiful spring afternoon in southern Tuscany, and we are once more on a mad rush into the woods. While locals and tourists alike are preparing to stroll the streets of Florence or Rome, we’re donning our thickest boots and giving our neighbours dirty looks

THINGS TO DO

What to do with kids in Florence

The Florentine says a massive thank-you to everyone who contributed to this article, including Firenze Moms4Moms and Baby Bottega. Florence does not have the best reputation when it comes to children’s activities. Maybe it’s because of the haute culture, the myriad museums and churches, or

FOOD + WINE

How to navigate an Italian coffee bar

If you are new to Italy, whether as a visitor, student or expat, you may be uncertain how to proceed in the initial confusion, and apparent anarchy, of the local coffee bar. In your home country, you may be used to finding—and staying quietly in—a neat

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Stay healthy in Florence

Needing health care abroad can be a real pill. When living in a foreign country and an unfamiliar city where you don’t speak the language, having to set up a ...

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Italian lessons

The day has finally come to say goodbye to the last guests, fold the blankets and stack the mattresses, clean, cover and close. The last day of the season and time to say goodbye to my window view of cypress trees and green hills. Incredible, how fast six months have

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A guide to transportation in and around Florence

One of the best things about living in Florence is its size. Especially for those living in the city center, it is large enough to be bustling with activity while ...

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Make it yourself!

Let’s Work Artisans! Junior introduces children between 6 and 12 to the world of traditional artisanship while also teaching English in a fun and relaxed environment.   A project by Osservatorio dei Mestieri d’Arte (OmA), an association of artisans and artists, Let’s Work Artisans!

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