Ring the doorbell at via Sant’Egidio 29R and, if you have a reservation, you’ll be granted access into an elongated restaurant of extraordinary promise. Ivan de Simone is the chef patron, Neapolitan by birth, Florentine by adoption (when he was in his teens) and world traveller, having worked sub-aqua at renowned Norwegian restaurant Under, sustainability-focused Natura in Helsinki and, closer to home, Valeria Piccini’s Maremma mecca for foodies, the two Michelin star Caino. Now, Ivan is bringing all of his expertise to Testina.
Simplicity is the core aesthetic with beige and sage-shaded walls beneath a curved ceiling, a single spotlight per table and a miniscule yet well-stocked bar; the only concession is the black-and-white Pollock-style artwork and the pink glow of the kitchen at the end of the corridor. House-made grissini, four-day potato fermented bread and a divine whipped butter drizzled with acacia honey are well accepted along with the pretty Piedmont pinot nero bubbles as exceedingly thin tuna slices are set down on the stark white tablecloth. Paired with soy sauce, sesame, wasabi and a yellow mullet bottarga sprinkle, the starter sets the taste buds tingling and wanting more. Next is a spectacular cuttlefish ink veil, whereby the white seafood, ink, liver and innards have been pressed down and reconstituted into a flavour sensation elevated with wasabi, dill oil and broccoli florets. The piquancy persists for a good five minutes before pasta tubes dressed in a cacciucco-like sauce with sage accents move us deeper into the Tyrrhenian Sea, somewhere off Livorno.
Meanwhile, the natural wine selections are taking us on a journey, from an elegantissimo Lambrusco to a hay and citrus combo in an Abruzzese pecorino, which I would travel miles to taste again, especially in the pairing with the bittersweet main of amberjack, orange, radicchio and ginger. Our evening is coming to an end, but there’s a final treat for my tiramisu-loving husband, right after the honey gelato, pistachio and balsamic vinegar pre-dessert.
Ivan de Simone’s uncontainable talent is bubbling to the surface in this tiny five-table restaurant in the impervious shadow of the Duomo. Go now.
