Vinitaly 2025: high spirits, despite the tariffs

Vinitaly 2025: high spirits, despite the tariffs

Four days of wines and international interest in Verona

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Wed 09 Apr 2025 10:44 AM

A day at Vinitaly is not one for the faint-hearted, especially in the wake of the tariffs imposed on E.U. exports to the U.S. Despite the latent uncertainty, producers, buyers and the press remained in reasonably high spirits for the four-day wine extravaganza in Verona.

Red Montalcino

Our Vinitaly experience began on the 8.36 train from Firenze Santa Maria Novella, brimming with Tuscany’s wine people. A Rosso di Montalcino tasting was the first commitment of the day. Led by sommelier Massimo Billetto and organized by the Brunello di Montalcino wine consortium, a focus was placed on the differences between the 2022 (hot and dry) and 2023 (cooler spring) vintages as well as the changes reflected in the wines made from north to south, east to west, the altitude and soil types.

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Lunch in Calabria

Venturing out of our native Tuscany, a talk by wine communicator Francesco Sorelli (formerly marketing director at Ruffino and now director of the Chianti Rùfina wine consortium, among other things) was followed by an exquisite lunch served in the Calabria Pavilion. Local chef Pierluigi Vacca (L’Antico Borgo, Morano Calabro) served up a delicious trio of gourmet dishes centred on local ingredients, such as the crusco pepper alongside elegant wines produced from the Gaglioppo grape.

A tour of Tuscany

Always one of the most happening pavilions, Tuscany was brimming with wine lovers in search of something different or strengthening existing relationships. The bigger wine companies such as Ruffino, Dievole and Cecchi were constant hives of activities, while smaller setups like the Cortona wine consortia enjoyed a steady trickle of interest.

Earth + sea

The return of the Amphora Revolution saw ten producers (Nove Lune, Pietramatta, Piona, Jamin UnderWaterWines, Terre Antiche, Nima, Hadrianum, Luca Leggero Villareggia, A Mi Manera and La Vite – F.lli Lizzio) showcase their wines aged in terracotta jars and, in some cases, underwater in an effort to combat climate change.   

Punching above their weight

For high-quality small wineries, stopping by the Micro Mega Wines section curated by internationally respected Ian D’Agata is a must. It’s a great way to taste native grapes you might never have heard of, such of Bianco d’Alessano, Marselan and Friularo.

More than wine

Never content to rest on its proverbial laurels, Vinitaly extended its core to Italian and international beers this year with the Xcellent Beers area as well as the return of the popular mixology section.

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