A gravel drive winds up to the newly opened Cantina Meraviglia from the coastal via Aurelia between columns marking the sister winery Tenuta Le Colonne and verdant Cabernet Franc vineyards growing in volcanic soil. A jigsaw puzzle piece of contemporary architecture and engineering is the dazzling surprise at the end of the track.
Belonging to the ABFV Italia Group – Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards, which also includes Dievole in Chianti Classico and two wineries in Montalcino, a section of the former derelict Cariola quarry was detonated to obtain the fullest extent of the pit, in which a design-driven edifice was erected in a project led by Florence-based architecture firm Bernardo Tori Studio and engineering consultants Niccolò De Robertis (AEI Projects), purposefully incorporating the bare rock face at every level. While the Mediterranean glitters enticingly in the near distance from the side terrace planted with heat-resistant herbs, the muted tones of the winery conjure up a Los Angeles-meets-Palm Springs vibe.
Party spaces aside—and the late June inaugural night was quite something—this is a working winery after all. The tour begins on the first floor, where impressive raw concrete tulip vats stand side by side in the fermentation room, ensuring micro-oxygenation of the strictly organic wine. However, it’s the giant metal supports buttressing the hillside that steal the scene, a demonstration of the feat of engineering at work at this winery near Bolgheri. The next stop during the winery visit takes wine lovers onto a mezzanine level complete with elegant tasting rooms that hover over the barrel cellar. Big untoasted French barrels elevate the finesse of the wines, without covering the fruit. It’s the bare rock face, lit up for a classy slice of drama, which makes the difference as the live stone walls mean that less human intervention is needed in the ageing process. A lift whizzes us up to the top floor, where an undulating wooden slatted wall guides visitors to a luxury hotel-quality lounge for relaxing moments pre- and post-tasting experience.
Cantina Meraviglia will undoubtedly feature in every design magazine on the planet, so be sure to visit when the winery opens in September before everyone else does!
Tenuta Le Colonne: for light bites + wine tasting
Stop by Tenuta Le Colonne’s stylish bistro for light bites before or after the beach. Opt for the Mediterranean-style garden or air-conditioned enoteca and fill up on local tapas and grazing boards loaded with Tuscan cold cuts and cheeses. Other appealing options include fish crudo, salads and focacce.
