Estonian baker Robert Marrandi is on a mission: to bring Scandinavian style and the best of brunch to Florence. Inspired by winning Best Bakery in Florence in 2024 according to foodie magazine Il Forchettiere and being featured in esteemed Gambero Rosso’s Pane&Panettieri d’Italia 2025 guide, Wild Buns has now added a second outlet on the corner of via Giusti and borgo Pinti, just around the corner from the Four Seasons.
On the Saturday lunchtime when I visit, a week after opening, a cool congregation of Italians and internationals were queuing outdoors with Robert himself on crowd control, squiggling names in white erasable ink on the glass. The line moves quickly, and within five minutes I’m contentedly sharing an industrial-vibe graphite table with two Italian students, sipping matcha lattes topped with a heart and devouring an attractively presented plate of Nordic rye (10 euro) topped with avocado, poached egg and a rye crumble. On-trend music beats through the speakers in the L-shaped space wrapped around the main counter, but conversation flows in a show of creativity and companionship.
For once, I succeed in resisting the famous buns; today’s line-up tempts with salted caramel, seasonal pumpkin spice, blueberry crumble and chocolate hazelnut. Instead I’m here for the brunch menu, my sense of nostalgia drawn to the Oslo sourdough waffles, the most expensive dish available at 14 euro. At this point, it’s only proper to premise this review by saying that I have a longstanding rapport with Scandinavia thanks to my dear friend Christina, a native of Norway, and a lasting friendship that dates back to our university days together in York, in northeast England. The last time I was in Oslo saw me tasting cinnamon rolls galore as well as crispy thin vafler for afternoon tea served with Nordic berries and that love-it-or-loathe-it sweetish brown cheese. Served in a rimmed dish, the imported waffle iron has clearly served its purpose here in Florence, generously producing four individual quarters of crunchy delights alongside sour cream, a dash of dill oil, some avocado, salmon marinated in pastrami rub to add colour and spice, and the sharp brightness of pickled cucumbers, a recipe I have at home from one Easter spent with my Norwegian buddy. Smiling, the ensemble transports me north and makes me reminisce about a rainy day in an Oslo coffee shop near the Munch Museum.
Looking around the whitewashed, high-ceilinged locale, I’m not the only one content with my plateful. Overnight oats with various toppings, scrambled eggs on toast and an array of doorstop sandwiches (I’ll be back soon for the beetroot hummus, red cabbage and walnuts) are all being savoured by the effortlessly trendy clientele. Business is brisk at the takeaway counter as Wild Buns fanatics stock up on sweet treats and sourdough bread baked that morning, while one of the 20-strong staff rolls out dough on the open-kitchen work surface. Sacks of Tuscan flour from south of Siena, bags of Florence-roasted speciality coffee beans and FSC recycled napkins pay testament to Robert’s commitment to sustainability, something appreciated by his ecologically conscious customers.
Wild Buns in via Giusti is not just a bakery and brunch spot. As night falls, the focus switches to natural wines and grazing boards, often with DJ sets and in collaboration with some of Italy’s most enticing brands. And don’t worry: Oltrarno residents need not be concerned as the original bakery is still doing a roaring business in via di Camaldoli, near piazza Tasso.
