For 17 years, all of Italy has reserved the last Sunday in May for Cantine Aperte. Last year, over four million people visited the country’s wineries during ‘Open Cellars’ as they threw open their doors and showed off production facilities.
My recipe for a great Cantine Aperte day in Tuscany? Organize a group of friends (one must have a car), appoint the most computer savvy to download a list of open cellars from www.movimentoturismovino.it and plan your trip. Put the star navigator up front, and, to ensure a safe trip back, make sure the driver is someone who likes viewing the Tuscan countryside more than drinking wine. That said, everyone in the car should be prepared for a day of discussion about vines, harvesting, barrels, barriques, fermentation, and bottling.
During Cantine Aperte, I will be around Tuscany all day starting at sunrise. I’ll have my maps and lists, and, of course, my faithful Blackberry, so if you are desperate or disoriented, email me (m.badiani@theflorentine.net) and I’ll do my best to help.
In the meantime, here are some ideas to get you started. Be curious and seek out some of the smaller wineries hidden throughout the countryside. This is the only way you can become a true wine explorer!
And if you find something worth mentioning, let me know so I can keep it in mind for next year’s Cantine Aperte.
Marco
Cantine Aperte Itineraries
NEAR FLORENCE
If you would like to stay near Florence, the nearest wine region can be found in Chianti Rufina, which spans southern Florence to the Consuma Pass). I recommend two stops in this area: Castello di Nipozzano, which produces Mormoreto; and the enchanting Pomino Estate, which produces a white wine from vineyards at one of the highest elevations in Tuscany (700 metres)-be sure to taste the Pomino Benefizio. Both wineries are owned by Frescobaldi (www.frescobaldi.it).
After Chianti Rufina, take the turn towards Carmignano, where you can visit the amazing Capezzana (www.capezzana.it) and Fattoria di Bacchereto (www.fattoriadibacchereto.com), which produces a fabulous biodynamic wine called Terra a Mano (my favorite of the last three years).
IN CHIANTI CLASSICO
The Chianti Classico region is a must. Start from Castellina in Chianti at the Castello di Fonteruotoli dei Mazzei (www.fonterutoli.it), then head over to Casa Emma (www.casaemma.com) and the award-winning cellars of Castellare di Castellina (www.castellare.it).
From Castellina, move on to the area of Gaiole in Chianti, where the impressive Barone Ricasoliat Castello di Brolio (www.ricasoli.it), one of the big name winemakers, is a must. After that, I recommend a trip to Tenuta di Coltibuono (www.coltibuono.com).
In Greve in Chianti, I suggest stopping by the Villa Calcinaia (www.villacalcinaia.it) and the Castello di Verrazzano (www.verrazzano.com), where you can buy an original and inexpensive ‘Minituscan’.
Radda in Chianti has many treats to offer as well: head straight up to Castello di Volpaia (www.volpaia.it) where you can visit the cellars, but please note that visits are available only at certain times. Then head back down toward Radda for a stop at the pleasant PrunetoEstate (www.pruneto.it), perched on top of a hill, before heading to the Podere Terreno (www.podereterreno.it). Castello D’Albola (www.albola.it), also worth a visit, is one of the larger wineries in the area.
CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA
I highly recommend a visit to Dievole (www.dievole.it) in Castelnuovo Berardenga, near Siena, about two and half hours from Florence. Its location is absolutely breathtaking, and the hospitable and generous winery owners organize a delightful tasting that ends in the main cellars accompanied by music and special pecorino cheeses.
SAN GIUSTINO DI AREZZO
Il Borro (www.ilborro.com), located in San Giustino di Arezzo, deserves a visit. The Ferragamo family built magnificent cellars on the edge of a fairytale-like medieval village. Nearby is the simple but excellent Tenuta Vitereta (www.tenutavitereta.com); be sure to try the superb Sterpo.
BY THE SEA
For those who would like to combine a bit of seascape with their wine-tasting, I recommend heading out to the many wine producers in Maremma, the EtruscanCoast, and the area of Bolgheri. The Petra Cellar (www.petrawine.it) is worth a visit in Suverto and Moris Farms (www.morisfarms.it) in Massa Marittima is not to be missed (especially the divine Avvoltore).
