The Chianti village of San Casciano Val di Pesa is unusually still as I make my way along its charismatic main street in search of Nello. Once a traditional trattoria, it has been transformed into a playful fine dining destination by partners in life and work, chef Federico Migliori and maître and pastry chef Chiara Zanetti.
Opened in 2022, the entertaining eatery is currently defining its next menu through a series of themed dinners centred on the senses. While sight was the focus earlier this winter, on the evening of The Florentine’s visit, it is sound that takes centre stage inside the restaurant’s elegant three-storey townhouse.
The experience begins not with a dish, but with an invitation. Chiara introduces the concept, reflecting on the interplay between sound and silence while encouraging diners to participate: “Listen,” she says, “and discover that perhaps even silence has value.”
The opening antipasto immediately sets the tone. “Gin and tonic by the sea” arrives as a skewer of smoked amberjack resting on shells, sprayed tableside with an emulsion of gin, extra-virgin olive oil and herbs. Alongside it, a small bottle filled with sand and shells produces the faint hush of the shoreline when lifted to the ear.
Two small bites follow, nodding to the chef’s pastry background with wit and illusion: a choux puff disguised as a “truffle”, a Cinta Senese candy wrapped in edible film and the playful “Nello Rocher”, concealed in a bowlful of cocoa nibs. Then, a shift. The lights dim. A basket of sourdough bread arrives with a Cinta Senese lard candle, presented in near-total darkness. Conversation falls away, and the simple act of breaking bread becomes heightened, the crackle of crust amplified in the silence.
From here, the menu unfolds across four courses inspired by the elements—fire, earth, water and air—each paired with a headphone experience in silent disco mode, created in collaboration with Tuscany by Tom. Sound becomes both accompaniment and ingredient.
Fire is conjured through the crackle of embers underscoring “Not a Fiorentina”, a smoked beef tartare that evokes the iconic steak through memory and technique, enriched with marrow and meat garum. Earth follows in a single raviolo filled with liquid Parmigiano Vacche Rosse, an intense, molten centre that bursts on the palate. Served on hay, it is punctuated by the sharp pop of a balloon, a playful echo of the explosion within and a fleeting return to childhood. Water shifts the mood once more. Lightly seared tuna meets spinach and seafood soppressata, while the sound of waves laps gently through the headphones, reinforcing the maritime thread. Air brings the savoury courses to a close with a surprising reinterpretation of a Tuscan staple. “Crazy Ribollita” transforms the rustic soup into a delicate composition of bean cream, candied black cabbage, bread crumble and a white chocolate and olive oil foam. Wind whispers through the headphones as the dish dissolves expectations.
A blindfolded pre-dessert follows, where citrus notes and popping candy crackle unexpectedly on the tongue, heightening sensory awareness. The final act leans into nostalgia: aniseed wafers, jellies, cotton candy and pumpkin seed brittle evoke the carefree spirit of an amusement park, while soap bubbles are blown across the table by diners in a whimsical farewell.
Beyond these themed evenings, which continue to question how we experience food, with the next in May dedicated to touch, Nello also offers a more traditional format. Diners can choose à la carte or opt for tasting menus such as “Back to Origins” (84 euro), “Where Ingredients are Transformed” (98 euro), or the chef-led “Close Your Eyes” experience (115 euro).
The evening concludes with a descent into the past. Sommelier Alex Turmac leads guests into a 16th-century cellar, his “office”, where bottles of varying shapes and vintages line the walls. Here, curated tastings offer a journey through the world of wine, grounding the restaurant’s forward-thinking approach in a deep respect for tradition.
Nello is clearly charting its own course, injecting a sense of play and curiosity into fine dining without sacrificing technical precision. The restaurant’s recent inclusion in JRE – Jeunes Restaurateurs, an international network celebrating emerging culinary talent, confirms what is already evident at the table: this is a place unafraid to experiment, and all the more compelling for it.
