I’ll never forget the time I ordered seafood pasta in Rome. After I’d savoured every last mollusk and cephalopod morsel, I realised that my English friend was staring at me in horror. ‘Now that you’ve finished, can you tell me precisely what you just ate?’ It obviously made a lasting impression on her: at the end of her visit, my pal presented me with a mini Thun octopus as a memento.
illux Leo Cardini
I understand where she was coming from. When I first came to Italy, I wouldn’t even touch Parma ham and I’d only eat a bowl of pasta al pesto maybe once a week. For me there was a world of difference between pesce and seafood, and the latter was simply a step too far. But as the years passed and I became less English and more ‘hybrid,’ baby squid and octopus swam into my diet.
But until last month, I had never cooked a cephalopod. I’m a good cook, consistent and at times courageous—my Tuscan husband claims my ragù is on a par with his mamma’s (he’s lying, albeit out of love). It was a fear thing. How can I possibly touch a raw octopus, with those eyes and tentacles? Will its suckers stick to my pan?
Basta! Off I went to my local fishmonger’s, who told me exactly how to cook the dreadful-looking thing. Thirteen years later, I’m proud to announce that I have overcome my cephalopod phobia. And, you know what: it was as easy as pie. Enjoy!
RECIPE
Polpo e patate
(serves 4—or 2 if you have a very hungry tablemate)
Ingredients
1 kg octopus, cleaned
4 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into small chunks
1 tablespoon dry white wine
New finest extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Pinch of chilli pepper
Handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Method
Place the octopus in a large pot and fill with cold water to cover and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil. Lower the heat and cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes or until the octopus has turned pink and a knife slices through it as if it were butter. Turn off the heat and let cool completely in the cooking liquid. Drain and cut into small pieces.
In a separate pan, cook the potatoes until tender. Drain and place in a serving bowl. Drizzle with the white wine. Add the octopus, season with salt, pepper, chilli pepper and parsley.
Dress with a generous drizzle of the new oil.
